Yesterday we left at 6 am to go cyclıng through the Anatolian mountains. The only place open was a little pastry shop and they hadn’t yet started brewing the vast vats of Chai/ black tea that make up the daily punctuations of Turkish life. So instead we were given tea bags with a little loop of string attached to dunk them into our hot water. After a while the shop owner put down the trays of fresh pastry he was carrying , removed the tea bag from Jen’s cup with a spoon, wound the string round it to squeeze the tea out and placed it carefully on the saucer beside her. Such are the tiny hospitalities that make up a day bike touring through Turkey. Where to be a guest, even in a small pastry shop at 6am, is an honour.